Friday - Corboda - Finally, we got to see the mosque! (This was the one thing that we ended up missing during our trip three years ago, because we had to return early to get replacement passports after getting robbed.) We walked into the Juderia to find a place for coffee and croissants (inside, because it was chilly). Then into the Mesquita, with its hundreds (thousands?) of pillars and striped arches surrounding a small cathedral.
Afterwards we walked to the Alcazar, where a crowd in fancy dress was waiting to enter, so we figured that we'd better come back later. The Fiesta de Los Patios started today, meaning that people opened their private courtyards for viewing, competing for prizes for the beauty and variety of the potted flowers on display. By the time peole were closing (2pm), the crowd at the Alcazar had dispersed so we could see the palace and gorgeous gardens. Who do you have to be to have your wedding in the Alcazar's chapel? Whoever they were, her dress was lovely.
We made it to the train station in time to catch the 16:29 bullet train back to Madrid, where we went back to the same comfortable hotel. We got to the Finca de Susana restaurant, the place we discovered three years ago with Lauren, in time to make their first sitting, and Monica treated us to a wonderful farewell (to Margy, anyway) meal.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Paleolithic cave paintings!
Thursday - Benaojan to Cordoba - We were very sorry to leave the lovely little Molina del Santo, with a terrace overlooking a pool, gardens, and brook with a waterfall. Their breakfast was the best ever. We drove the few miles to the Cueva de la Pileta, arriving to find 25 school kids ready to enter. The guide kindly let us go at the front of the group and guided in English as well as Spanish. The Paleolithic and Neolithic cave paintings were incredible - the real thing!
When we drove north to Acipino, the road to the Roman ruins was washed out, so we had a long walk in. The amphitheater overlooked piles of rubble where buildings had been, and then a gorgeous view of hills and olive groves. During the walk back to the car we talked to a young American who was living in Ronda, teaching English, who said that it had rained for three months this winter, which is why everything looks unusually green.
The drive to Cordoba was uneventful, with the help of GPS Jack, including and uninspired lunch at a roadside cafe and seeing flamingos in a marsh. We only had to circle the train station three times before we found the rental car return -- not bad. Meg and I took a walk around the mosque and across the newly restored Roman Bridge while the sun set. Monica went sleep early after all that driving!
When we drove north to Acipino, the road to the Roman ruins was washed out, so we had a long walk in. The amphitheater overlooked piles of rubble where buildings had been, and then a gorgeous view of hills and olive groves. During the walk back to the car we talked to a young American who was living in Ronda, teaching English, who said that it had rained for three months this winter, which is why everything looks unusually green.
The drive to Cordoba was uneventful, with the help of GPS Jack, including and uninspired lunch at a roadside cafe and seeing flamingos in a marsh. We only had to circle the train station three times before we found the rental car return -- not bad. Meg and I took a walk around the mosque and across the newly restored Roman Bridge while the sun set. Monica went sleep early after all that driving!
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Off to the mountains!
Wednesday - Sevilla to Benaojan - We packed up and taxied to the Seville train station where we had breakfast and rented a car from an adorable trainee. She was very nervous, and had to run after us twice to have Monica sign additional papers.
We managed to find our way out of town and drove south on the highway to Arcos de la Frontera, our first White Town. We walked its narrow streets, had lunch outside, and looked out over the valley from the miradors. Meg stood in the stone circle where Christians used to exorcize their children before baptizing them -- better late than never.
We followed the narrow road through the mountains, over a pass at 1,100 meters. When we arrived in the tiny town of Benaojan, we couldn't find the hotel. A local gave us confusing instructions and we ended up almost stuck at the end of a dirt road. Thank goodness Monica is a great driver and was able to turn around in someone's driveway, avoiding a tree and a stone wall! When the locals saw us again, still searching, they led us to the inn. We figured they thought we were absolute idiots! We hope they are still laughing about us.
After getting settled in the gireous inn, with gardens, a swimming pool, and little brook with a waterfall, we drove into Ronda to see the incredible 18th century bridge over the gorge that splits the village. After walking along the cliff edge and across the bridge, we had light dinner at the parador, scoring the corner table with a view and loving the duck pate, grilled veggies, goat cheese in puff pastry, and wonderful service.
The GPS ("Jack") took us home, past about 30 construction workers at the spot where made out earlier wrong turn near the inn. More laughter, we assume!
We managed to find our way out of town and drove south on the highway to Arcos de la Frontera, our first White Town. We walked its narrow streets, had lunch outside, and looked out over the valley from the miradors. Meg stood in the stone circle where Christians used to exorcize their children before baptizing them -- better late than never.
We followed the narrow road through the mountains, over a pass at 1,100 meters. When we arrived in the tiny town of Benaojan, we couldn't find the hotel. A local gave us confusing instructions and we ended up almost stuck at the end of a dirt road. Thank goodness Monica is a great driver and was able to turn around in someone's driveway, avoiding a tree and a stone wall! When the locals saw us again, still searching, they led us to the inn. We figured they thought we were absolute idiots! We hope they are still laughing about us.
After getting settled in the gireous inn, with gardens, a swimming pool, and little brook with a waterfall, we drove into Ronda to see the incredible 18th century bridge over the gorge that splits the village. After walking along the cliff edge and across the bridge, we had light dinner at the parador, scoring the corner table with a view and loving the duck pate, grilled veggies, goat cheese in puff pastry, and wonderful service.
The GPS ("Jack") took us home, past about 30 construction workers at the spot where made out earlier wrong turn near the inn. More laughter, we assume!
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Last day in Seville
Tuesday - Sevilla - We took a taxi to the Plaza de Espagna, the outrageous huge tiled semicircular space built for the 1926 exhibition. Unfortunately, it was under construction, so we couldn't rent rowboats in the little moat. But the tilework was incredible. Each of Spain's 50 states has a tilework picture. The day was gorgeous -- apparently when the weather report predicts rain, they are only kidding.
We walked to the Cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, and climbed the 34 ramps up the Giralda tower to get a view of the city. The place is so big that it has all the spiritual feeling of a bus station. The architecture has a little bit of everything Gothic -- enormous and impressive.
Lunch was a wonderful Morrocan feast in a restaurant that turned out to be around the corner from our hotel. In the evening, we walked along the Guadalquivir and watch the crowds over a truly inferior caipirinha, which Meg purchased for the three of us. Maybe Meg or Monica will remember what we did for dinner!
We walked to the Cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, and climbed the 34 ramps up the Giralda tower to get a view of the city. The place is so big that it has all the spiritual feeling of a bus station. The architecture has a little bit of everything Gothic -- enormous and impressive.
Lunch was a wonderful Morrocan feast in a restaurant that turned out to be around the corner from our hotel. In the evening, we walked along the Guadalquivir and watch the crowds over a truly inferior caipirinha, which Meg purchased for the three of us. Maybe Meg or Monica will remember what we did for dinner!
Monday, May 10, 2010
Second day in Seville
Monday - Sevilla - We slept late despite a small dog somewhere in the neighborhood that started barking at about 8am.
We went to the Flamenco museum, which explained about the various styles of Flamenco dance. We signed Meg up for a lesson tomorrow, since she's taken classes in ballet and tap. A massage as on Monica's list of things to do, so we (eventually) found the nearby Arab baths and signed Monica up for a bath and massage tomorrow.
We took a taxi to the bull ring for a tour, but we realized that restaurants would close soon (they close from 3 to 8), so we went to the nearest restaurant for a quick lunch. We had a lovely lunch with grilled vegetables - including more grilled artichoke hearts with ham than we could eat.
The tour of the bull ring was led by a woman with the flattest delivery we've ever heard. It sounded as though she had memorized the entire tour -- in both Spanish and English -- phonetically. Luckily, the bull ring and museum were pretty cool anyway.
We walked across the Guadalquivir River bridge to the neighborhood of Triana, and saw lots of ceramic studios. I thought about buying tiles to go between the kitchen counters and the windowsills but didn't see anything worth the hassle of lugging home.
In the evening, we went to a flamenco show that was short but good. We stopped for ice cream on the way home. We like the idea of having a large lunch and a small dinner (and who ever said that ice cream isn't dinner?).
We went to the Flamenco museum, which explained about the various styles of Flamenco dance. We signed Meg up for a lesson tomorrow, since she's taken classes in ballet and tap. A massage as on Monica's list of things to do, so we (eventually) found the nearby Arab baths and signed Monica up for a bath and massage tomorrow.
We took a taxi to the bull ring for a tour, but we realized that restaurants would close soon (they close from 3 to 8), so we went to the nearest restaurant for a quick lunch. We had a lovely lunch with grilled vegetables - including more grilled artichoke hearts with ham than we could eat.
The tour of the bull ring was led by a woman with the flattest delivery we've ever heard. It sounded as though she had memorized the entire tour -- in both Spanish and English -- phonetically. Luckily, the bull ring and museum were pretty cool anyway.
We walked across the Guadalquivir River bridge to the neighborhood of Triana, and saw lots of ceramic studios. I thought about buying tiles to go between the kitchen counters and the windowsills but didn't see anything worth the hassle of lugging home.
In the evening, we went to a flamenco show that was short but good. We stopped for ice cream on the way home. We like the idea of having a large lunch and a small dinner (and who ever said that ice cream isn't dinner?).
Sunday, May 9, 2010
We arrive in Seville
Sunday - Madrid and Sevilla - After a noisy night of cars honking and people yelling, we remembered the drawbacks of downtown hotels. We had breakfast at the Atocha train station after saying hi to the turtles in the huge rain-forest-like atrium. The AVE train to Sevilla took 2.5 hours and was quiet and fast.
We took a taxi to the Hotel Montecarlo, near the Puente Isabel and the bull ring. We wandered around a bit and had a lovely outdoor lunch in a small plaza, with little bundles of grilled asparagus wrapped in ham, and little steaks with Roquefort. It was just barely warm enough for us to want to sit outside.
The Alcazar was amazing, a palace built on top of an old fort by a Christian king in a Moorish (Mudejar) style. After seeing the Moorish architecture in Grenada during our last trip, it was fascinating to see a the mixed Moorish-Christian style.
Then we walked around the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, with incredibly narrow streets that were darned confusing. We bought tickets for a flamenco tickets for tomorrow. After resting at the hotel, we had dinner at lovely formal taverna. The appetizers were fantastic, but the main courses were disappointing. Meg got "black rice" for an appetizer, which I'm pretty sure was rice with little pieces of squid and that the black was from squid or octopus ink, but she chose not to think about it.
We took a taxi to the Hotel Montecarlo, near the Puente Isabel and the bull ring. We wandered around a bit and had a lovely outdoor lunch in a small plaza, with little bundles of grilled asparagus wrapped in ham, and little steaks with Roquefort. It was just barely warm enough for us to want to sit outside.
The Alcazar was amazing, a palace built on top of an old fort by a Christian king in a Moorish (Mudejar) style. After seeing the Moorish architecture in Grenada during our last trip, it was fascinating to see a the mixed Moorish-Christian style.
Then we walked around the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, with incredibly narrow streets that were darned confusing. We bought tickets for a flamenco tickets for tomorrow. After resting at the hotel, we had dinner at lovely formal taverna. The appetizers were fantastic, but the main courses were disappointing. Meg got "black rice" for an appetizer, which I'm pretty sure was rice with little pieces of squid and that the black was from squid or octopus ink, but she chose not to think about it.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Margy, Meg and Monica go to Spain
Saturday - Madrid - Meg and I arrived after about four hours of sleep on the plane and took the Metro to the Hotel Prado right near the Plaza Santa Ana. Monica arrived soon after. It's suprisingly cool here, a little cooler than Vermont. Rain is predicted for the entire week, but it's mainly just a bit cloudy.
After settling in, we walked over to the Plaza Mayor to show Monica. (We were there three years ago.) We had a disappointing lunch in the basement of a restaurant at the Plaza Major because it was too cold to sit outside. That's partly because although we love the idea of tapas, in reality, it usually comes down to excellent smoked ham on bread, or fried potatoes.
Since Meg and Monica will have time to go to the Prado next week, we went to the Centro del Arte Reina Sofia for modern art, especially Dali and Guernica. The museum is a huge old building around a courtyard, where we recharged our brains between Dali and Picasso.
We had a tapas-style dinner at La Trucha, which included trout, eggplants, and garlic shrimp. And we managed to stay up to a decent hour, so we were tired enouhg to sleep through the night and wake up on Spain time.
After settling in, we walked over to the Plaza Mayor to show Monica. (We were there three years ago.) We had a disappointing lunch in the basement of a restaurant at the Plaza Major because it was too cold to sit outside. That's partly because although we love the idea of tapas, in reality, it usually comes down to excellent smoked ham on bread, or fried potatoes.
Since Meg and Monica will have time to go to the Prado next week, we went to the Centro del Arte Reina Sofia for modern art, especially Dali and Guernica. The museum is a huge old building around a courtyard, where we recharged our brains between Dali and Picasso.
We had a tapas-style dinner at La Trucha, which included trout, eggplants, and garlic shrimp. And we managed to stay up to a decent hour, so we were tired enouhg to sleep through the night and wake up on Spain time.
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